Intro to Trad Multi-Pitch and an Evenings Cragging

Sea Cliff Climbing in Pembrokeshire

On Tuesday I met up with Ryan and Ffion by Penally and went over to Proud Giltar for the day. Both Ryan and Ffion have a lot of indoor climbing experience but had never gone trad climbing before. We had a grey day, journeying around the cliff and passing on trad seconding skills along the way. Nice to get out with you guys. 

Yesterday I went for an evening climbing session with Jake at Bosherston Head, in South Pembs. I was keen to give a new route a try that I had seen a few days before. After a few goes and a couple of lobs, I admitted defeat and climbed up to the top via Joybringer. I pointed Jake at a line that I had seen that was also unclimbed and Jake dispatched that one successfully! I finished the day by romping up Solitaire.  

Three Days of Work and Play

Outdoor Sea Cliff Climbing in Pembrokeshire

On Saturday I met up with a family from Bristol (the city I used to live) and took their two sons Tom and Charlie for a taste of what real rock climbing is all about. They are both keen indoor climbers but hadn't climbed outside before and I wanted to give them a day that would get them fired up. They seemed to love it, so hopefully it worked - Well done guys!

Yesterday I was back out in South Pembs with my old boss from Undercover Rock in Bristol and we hit Bosherston Head for a cool three pitch route and then Guy led the classic Riders On The Storm traverse at Stennis Head. We had time for another route but instead we lounged around in the sun chatting, before I had the inspired idea of going the the St. Govan's Inn beer garden for a pint in the afternoon sun. 

Today It was out with Sarah-Jane and Flow, for a quickish hit on Mother Carey's. SJ led Crithmum (not a sparkling route) and then I jumped on Herod. Out guiding again tomorrow.  

More Exploration in North Pembrokeshire

Yesterday evening I had the pleasure of hooking back up with Gav' and be taken to a small new crag that he'd discovered and had been playing about on recently. It's at the entrance to Solva Harbour, on the opposite side of the Harbour Wall Crag and on beautiful igneous rock. Gav' kicked off with soloing a short HVS that takes the right side of the wall. After watching Gav' I thought I'd better follow suit - good little number. Gav' then soloed the E3 arete on the left side, again on wonderful rock but a hideous landing if it all went wrong... He named this route Men of Harlech - after the song sang by the soldiers to the zulus in the film Zulu. I was glad that he soloed it with a rope on (so I could top rope it in safety). After that Gavin turned his attention to the central line of the crag that  went with a feisty move and christened Sing Damn You, and going at E2 5c. This crag is small and not likely to be destined for greatness, but it holds a lot of the factors that I love about climbing. Gavin discovered this crag after a working day through a thirst for exploration and by him self. He saw potential for climbs without the need for a guide book. He then put to bed the routes that he could solo with out use of mats. Nice one Gav'. 

A Stag Do in the Beautiful Wye Valley

Canoeing, Climbing and Camping 

It was my old mate Alex Burns's stag do. We assembled at a lovely camp site near a ancient wooden bridge. After a spot of fly fishing, slack lining, great camp fire and good feed we hit the hey. The following day we took to the water in our vessels - the classic and honourable canoe. It was a true pleasure to drift lazily down a part of the Wye that I have never been before and utterly beautiful with it. That evening we got to our next campsite and met up with more stag attendees. After an excellent bbq and too much to drink, we retired. Another late start was enjoyed and eventually we managed the logistics maze that was getting to Symonds Yat to go climbing. Our last campsite won prize for best shower block. A great few days - Lots of love Mr. Burns! 

What a Ride... And a Family Climbing Session

Pembrokeshire Sea Cliff Rock Climbing.

My good friend Tom came to stay over on Sunday evening and we got out on Monday to South Pembroke. We headed to Block House Buttress Left Wing, in search of some fun - we found it... Tom kicked off with a nice E1 called Amnesia, taking a rising crack line with a steep start. I had spotted some blank sections in the guide book to the right, so we went for a look. I jumped on a line heading up to a good looking roof section, that turned out to be a surprisingly amenable E1, taking in some impressive ground on quality rock. Tom, feeling keen for his first new route then blasted his way up another steep unclimbed line, that also went at around E1. Tom decided on the name Crack My Pitch Up, in homage to a favourite Prodigy track and I settled on House Party. Two cool routes, both deserving of a star! Feeling very happy with our selves, we got on a two pitch, two star E2 traverse called Across the Universe. we abseiled into the massively overhanging cliff and looked up at the route with trepidation. The first pitch was a real esoteric struggle - much harder than the technical grade that was described, but extremely absorbing. Tom then took the second pitch, which although was the stated crux, felt a lot easier! Then with the evening light, it was straight to the St. Govan's Inn for a meal and a pint. 

The following day Tom assisted me with a morning family group climbing session at Wolf Rock - one of the few inland crags in Pembrokeshire. Tom Is coming up to his outdoor rock climbing instructor award assessment, and needs to log many sessions shadowing qualified instructors. It was a great session and everyone got to the tops of the climbs and we had a lot of fun. Well done  to you all :-) 

After that we had arranged to meet up with a mate called Ian up in North Pembs for some climbing at Trwyn LLwyd. Tom was keen for the three pitch E1 classic Barad, which we climbed first. Ian - being the monster that he is was keen for Raging Out - a Two star E5. Ian (being the monster that he is) dispatched the route, then I was up second. I got to the top, without the flare and style of Ian but did get up it... Tom then joined us and we packed up and headed back to the vans. A very full on couple of days. Love it!