Pembroke Sea Cliff Climbing Adventures.

Range East and back to Disco Buttress

Good day out yesterday with Chris and Choire in Range East. The sea was wild, so staying away from it's watery grip was a major concern. This was mainly successful, barring one minor wetting. After rethinking our original objective we settled for Galactic Co-ordinater, a lovely two pitch route on the Triple Overhang Buttress. That done we took an airy abseil into the left side of Blockhouse Buttress to get funky on the two pitch route Startruck, and what a voyage into the land of  the up side down that was... Great fun with two cheeky chappies. Today it was time to get Choire and Chris's VIP tickets to the newly opened Disco Buttress.  Chris got his wiggle on by jumping on Disco Tech. Choire took at flyer off Disco Leg, and after a short rest got back on and topped it out - nice one Choire! To finish off, we headed over to west side of Disco Buttress and threw a rope down on a meaty looking line through a large roof and slash crack above. After a quick top rope try, I led it to give a two star E2 5b named Panic at the Disco. Wish I'd saved it for the onsite! Great couple of days guys.

More Climbing at Disco Buttress

On Wednesday I met up with Dave and Robyn at Mother Carey's Kitchen car park. After a morning's top rope practise on King of the Disco, the weather closed in and we made retreat to Alun's house for warm cups of tea. The following day was forecast to rain all day, so plans turned to a fun day at Oakwood Theme Park. The day following was delightful, and progress was made on KOTD and another route to it's left. Alun even came out to put up a new route to the right of Disco Leg. Nice one guys!   

Introducing Disco Buttress

Seven new routes on a newly developed Pembrokeshire sea cliff? 

Dave was down to stay for a couple of days and I hadn't really thought about where to go. The last few times that Dave has visited, we'd mainly been poking our noses around areas that seemed underdeveloped in the guide books. We had come away each time with some cool new routes and had a good laugh. We headed to Mother Carey's, with an idea to check out an area between that and Blind Bay. We found a lovely set of little walls, with good lines and on top quality limestone. Check it out if you're in the area!  

Filming Moonraker and Aviation

Berry Head and Dartmoor Classic Rock Climbs 

On Wednesday evening, me and Edmund jumped in the van and drove down to South Devon to meet up with film maker Jerry for a couple of full days capturing ascents of Moonraker at Berry Head and Aviation at Lowman on the Dartmoor National Park. After packing in two big days, we returned home to Pembroke feeling happy but tired... 

Last of the Summer Wine?

Sea Cliff Climbing Courses in Pembrokeshire

Last week I was out with Ben for two days of sea cliff climbing. He has recently submitted an application to do his Mountaineering Instructor Award Training course in Snowdonia and wanted to get more sea cliff climbs in his logbook prior to his training. We had a good day at Mowingword ticking classics on a classic crag. Day two was spent at another classic crag - Mother Carey's Kitchen, where more great routes were climbed. Good luck Ben with your training, I'm sure you'll love it. 

On Friday I was working for NICAS doing a moderation of an outdoor climbing tower in South Wales delivering the scheme. The weather was amazing and the GCSE students enjoyed their session. 

Yesterday I was out with local friend Alun for a couple of ace adventure routes on the lesser visited Western Face of Mother Carey's. We climbed the first pitch of Oz, into the second pitch of Sporting Chance, which provided an excellent journey with a good dose of adventure. We followed by climbing another good route Oil Me Up. Two top routes that both didn't get a star between them...